Snow Comes to Holland

     What a sight to wake up to.

     We have been hearing from everyone how this was an unusually warm winter, but it was still a surprise.  Up until this week, the temperature had not dropped below freezing once, generally varying between 35 to 45, with a fair number of drizzly, overcast days.  “It’ll get colder,” our downstairs neighbor assured us.  It is not unusual to have snow at Christmas, but it hadn’t happened this year.  

     But this morning, we got up and looked out the window, and everything was covered in white: cars, bikes, road, sidewalk- everything. Not a deep layer, but just enough to cover it in a peaceful white coating.  The temperature had dropped to 28 and has been hovering between 18 to 28 this whole week.  The snow and cold didn’t seem to slow anybody down here, though.  When the sun eventually came up around 8:30 or so, Moms still bundled little kids onto the bike babyseats behind them to haul them off to school or day care or the store, joggers still trotted by, kids still went out to play.  And why shouldn’t they?  This was all quite normal.  I had to remind myself that, after all, Holland is as far north as Calgary, Canada, on the map, whereas Modesto is about level with Sicily.  Big difference.  

     When the temps drop below freezing, “Skate Fever” hits Holland big time.  Many of the Dutch eagerly await the cold temperatures so they can get outside and indulge in the national pastime of ice skating.  Actually, its just called “skating” here.  No need to specify “ice.”  As far as the Dutch are concerned, there is no other kind of skating.  We’ve had 4 days of below freezing temps now. Our neighbors invited us to go out skating with them this weekend, when they anticipate conditions will be just right.  Ice is forming on the canals and lakes around town, but they probably won’t freeze enough for skating.  The first places to freeze will be the “poulders” in the countryside.  They are large marshy areas covered with a foot or less of water.  Since they are so shallow, they freeze quickly and there is no danger of falling though the ice.  They turn into giant outdoor skating rinks.  Everybody has their favorite location.  To be sure, the Dutch grumble about the winter blahs as much as everyone else, but they still enjoy being active outside in the winter.

     With enough cold weather, sometimes its even possible to skate from city to city.  In fact, Holland boasts the world’s largest and longest speed skating competition in the world, the “Elfstedentocht,” or “11 cities tour”.  Its 200 kilometers long (over 124 miles), passing through 11 cities in the north of The Netherlands, and is conducted entirely on frozen canals, rivers, and lakes.  Think of the Boston Marathon on ice- times 5.  Its not held every year since conditions have to be just right for the entire course.  The over 15,000 skaters expected to participate can take quite a toll on the ice, so it has to be quite solid.  

     Each fall, excitement builds for this Super Bowl on ice, and everyone’s attention turns to speculating whether or not this will be a year for the Elfstedentocht.  When it is announced that one will occur, Holland explodes in a frenzy of national celebration-- kind of like when the Red Sox went to the World Series.  Huge crowds gather at the starting point city, which turns into a giant all-night street party.  The race starts the next morning, and the skaters must finish before midnight to successfully complete the race.  In 1963, the weather was so brutal that only 1 per cent finished.  Dutch folks line the route to cheer on the racers in a Dutch version of the Tour de France.  There have only been 15 since it started in 1909, and with global warming and all, 1997 was the last time one was held.  Looks like 2012 won’t be the year either.

     Well, enough for now.  Veronica and I are off to make snow angels in the street in front of house.  After that, it will be time for Glűhwein!

Recipe for a frozen tushie....

Snow on Hog Warts High